京の着物づくり

京 手描友禅とは

Kyoto hand-painted yuzen holds a certain noble gorgeouness and express the beauties of nature elegantly, the development started by Edo period Genroku era fan painter Miyazaki Yuuzensai's fan drawing technique and it spreaded through-out the city of Kyoto.  Used a glue as fine-line glue on white fabric and drew patterns to dye adjacent without mixing the colors, it was done equal to painting like delicate dyeing pattern, the completed product is known as one of the rarest dyeing techniques.
Kyoto hand-painted Yuzen is not done by a single artisan, the workload is divided by 14 to 15 people from design planning, rough sketch, glueing, dyeing, yuzen insertion to completion.  Each step of work has it's expert artisan in charge, using inherited advance techniques from the past.  Additionally, it's our duty as dye artisan to bring those dedlicate hand-works together.  Dye artisan are like orchestra's conductor, gather all of artisan's technique to led towards Japan perfect beauty to commplete the performance.

富宏染工のきものづくりの特徴

Kyoto hand-painted yuzen are made by assembly-line production, combining multiple artisan's hand-work for this reason; all manufacturing process always has to be demonstrated in it's highest technique.  Product's ideal image and manufacturing aim have to be consistent.  For that purpose Tomihiro Senko Co. Ltd., almost all manufacturing process artisan were brought up to watch-over our workshop and will only use advance techniques here, all as one will to continue production.  Consequently, yuzen's vividness have yet depth to characterize, it's possible to emphasize on elegant and delicate designs.

Even though writing brushed are usually used in SashiYuzen, we use paint brushes that are deeper and are able to shows more detail.  If done this way, material's thread will be soaked all the way to the core and will also give it added depth.  Therefore, pigments that are used to make white color, among many workshop uses ready-made goods, our company are rather fastidiousness about glossy white, using the old-fashion techniques by mortar to grind pigment and knead.

In addition, a typical yuzen dyeing manufacturing process is, after colouring "Sashi Yuzen" detail patterns, [vacuum steaming] is then done, lines are layed out over the portion of pattern with glues, the fabric portion is then dyed, as for our company; due to this manufacturing process's cycle, for the purpose to avoid color alteration, we stop the vacuum steaming process, after coloring pattern "Sashi Yuzen", continue fabric part dyeing by paint brush.  By doing so, can prevent the color alteration during the manufacturing process, dyed colors come out as anticipated, on the other hand, can combine any color to balance finishing touch, it is now possible to dye the basecolor with diverse of colors.  Simply put, we have the environment to nurture advance technical capabillity artisans such as these in our workshop.

工程の詳細

Dye artisan's work intention paint in accordance with the design, arranged meetings repeatly and eventually came to a determined final design.  We then drew the pattern on white fabric with blue flowers for it’s formal tailoring.

The product called "To draw a fineline", put dedicated glue into the tip of thin brass tube's nose, as you squeeze glue from the tip of the tube, draw a fine line parallel to the rough sketch.
Whether to place a fine paste or a thick paste are all dependent upon the artisan's sense of craftmanship.  In silk printing, dyed by using anti-glue and the outcomes vary, any color and dyed in various colors.  Our company's fine thread are done by our unique resin glue original gold paint "original gold dust" mixing together with the original line "eye of gold thread" and by pulling fine threads.

When painting color, while the material is still white it's difficult to smear and for the purpose of not being able to penetrate, the process called “Jiire” is then used.  Our company uses pigment which we make exclusively by traditional technique.  SashiYuzen’s color also change depending on pigment’s density, the best method is having an artisan to mix whenever possible.  Let it dry naturally over night after coating with exclusive pigment.

Usually insert yuzen uses writing brush, our company uses paint brush in consideration to details and in order to bring out kimono's depth.  Fabric color are produced by the core of the threads are soaked and this part here is distinctly different to other workshops.
In addition, generally after this a steaming of 80 to 90 degrees "vacuum steaming" is done, glues are then place at the patterns "glue faced down", the part of fabric to dye "brush dyeing" 's process are done repeatedly, then anxieties build while colors subtle change after placing the glues face down.
There, our company stop with face down glues, and after yuzen dyed patterns part of fabric that are to be continue are too dyed by paint brushed method.  By doing that, it is now possible to match with the considered color scheme and balance with any colors.

Generally, kimono's base color are 1 to 2 color, we are making the base color any color is possible by using this technique, and are now making more beautiful stunning products.

The next stage of Yuzen, kimono are put into a steaming box at 80-90 degrees "steaming".  The coloring becomes more vivid by going through steaming, so for the first time, we as dye artisans our intended colors comes into being.  According to colors, steam times and frequency may vary.
Next is for the first time is the Mizumoto processed called "Sink Yuzen".  Until about 1965, fabric were flow washed at streams, canals and the like, nowadays indoor pool alike places are used.  In the case of thick base color and vivid color schemes, 2-3 repeated steamings are done.

Water's sterility are well, pumped underground water are used.  Kyoto's underground water are said to be most suitable to mizumoto.

Finishing washing, after drying, fabric stretches softly and nicely "Yu no shi".  Prevent fabric to become stiff and shrink.

2008 Kyoto Traditional Industry Technique Achievement Award Gold glazing craft Motohashi Kotaro

To further brilliantly display Kyoto hand-painted Yuzen Kimono, gold & silver foils, gold dust and the like were adhere processed to the dyed materials.
Stick vinyl "enbuta" scrap the part where you want to foil, stick foils where there are glue, you might put obscure from the tube gold and silver dusts "crushed gold powder".
Kimono's color and gold glazing's harmonization vary, the unique expression of Kyoto Yuzen is presented beautifully.

Place crest.

Correction work before finishing.  Inspect, and clean stains, dirty places if there are any..

In the shape "patterned" of kimono.

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